Monthly Archives: April 2010

Galapagos, Peru, Bolivia: No Sacred Cows–Dispatch 8

Just back from a rally with 50,000 of the capital’s citizens at Plaza de Mayo, observing the national day of remembrance. Many marchers, dancers, speakers, music, drum corps, and haunting eyes staring from faded fotos…those of the men and women who disappeared 30+ years ago.  Evita is still safely in her mausoleum in the Recoleta cemetery. Dancers are still tangoing at Plaza Dorrega.  And meat is still what’s for  lunch and dinner in nearly every restaurant in this city of 3 million.   With a national average of about 180 pounds of meat to be consumed per capita, everyone must do their bit.

As with our last foray into South America, this one ends in unplanned fashion, in Argentina.  And as with our last trip in this area, the tone of our trip has changed dramatically, from being defiantly on back roads, picking our way bit by bit, to highway pavement with all the ease that implies.   No longer is this trip about the getting there, the roads and experience of being in transit.  To me, Argentina is a heaven made of pavement and large, legible signs. Now I tick off the day in 100km increments and it’s all about the destination, the achievement of an end point.

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