Daily Archives: September 9, 2011

The Great Game: Dispatch 8-Ashgebad, Turkmenistan Part 1

In which we leave Iran more easily than we entered and thankfully discard our headscarfs. I have a love-hate relationship with my headscarf: first day it’s a novelty that amuses me; second day it’s a nuisance, slipping off my head and keeping me too hot; third day I’ve figured out how to get it to stay in place by means of a bun, and thus am proud of myself,; fourth day I’m so hot and bothered it resides at the far back of my head, exposing most of my hair, as done by the chic Iranian teenagers; fifth day I don it with resignation as it’s now simply a part of my wardrobe. At the border I take it off and shake myself with relief.
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